HackerNAP/HackerCAP

One of my (numerous) neglected projects is a version of the “HackerNAP” Naim clone amplifier. Naim is one of those brands that have a very loyal following, and many of their original designs have been analysed extensively by DIY’ers looking for improvements. The HackerNAP is one of those derivatives and the NCC200 from Avondale Audio is another – ebay is awash with other (more or less accurate) versions as well by the way.

Part of the reason why this project hasn’t been top of the list is that did not like the original HackerCAP PSU boards, so with a small delay (of around three years…) I decided to do my own version instead 😀

To be honest this isn’t how I would normally have done a PSU board – if had designed from scratch I would have made a larger board, used two full bridges and a full ground plane – but as the chassis are already drilled for the original boards I kept the physical size as close to the original as I could.

While the board size isn’t 100% the same as the original HackerCAP, I’ve retained the option to configure the design for both “normal” PSU usage and also for CRCRC or CLCLC configurations.

As the PSU boards are now done and tested, I can hopefully manage to do the rest of the assembly in less than three years 😀

Another mains controller…

I’ve designed and built a few control boards for switching on mains (e.g. this and this), because it tends to be a thing that many of my projects need. Good (and good looking!) mains switches are hard to come by, especially for higher currents, so it makes sense to use a lower-voltage switch combined with a relay or an SSR for this duty. An obvious downside to the relay-based approach is that a standby voltage is needed to control the relay, but as described in a previous post there are now several types of switching AC-DC converters able to do that job very cheaply and reliably.

However, more often than not I have found that I prefer to keep the standby PSU separate and so this addition to the control-board portfolio was delberately made smaller and to fit my usual 2”x2” format to make it stackable with my softstart-board. For anything with a large transformer in it, this is a combination that is very useful.

Another addition is an external trigger input (isolated with an optocoupler) which I don’t often use to be honest, but which I could see some potential in anyway. To make this feature a bit more versatile I have opted for the “deluxe-version”, by feeding the optocupler from a constant-current source made from an LM317L. This should mean that it’s not just the usual “12V-trigger” input, but actually it would work with any voltage between app. 3-30V and draw less than 20mA from the triggering device.

“In flight” (or at least on the way) are boards for a matching standby PSU based on the Mean Well IRM power modules – when everything is here and tested I’ll publish some files and more pictures 🙂

Sunday morning chipamps…

It’s been some time since I did an ebay kit, but that doesn’t mean I have given up on them (in fact I bought plenty…) and a cheap kit is still a great thing to play with on a Sunday morning**

It’s a pair of power amps based on paralleled TDA7293 amplifier ICs in the correct “master/slave” configuration as per the data sheet (and this discussion on diyaudio). The TDA7293 and TDA7294 chips are among the few survivors of the “purge” of audiophile components and they should still be available. Unlike the LM38xx-series and its siblings, the TDAs have MOS-FET output stages which means they can run in parallel without resistors to limit current sharing between outputs. The parallel arrangement allows for more current into low-impedance loads, but as the TDA7293 will work on up to +/-50V rails having two ICs also makes for a fairly serious effective power output.

These kits are seriously cheap and although I’ve tried to use most of the components that came with the kit, some parts have been replaced for cosmetic reasons (because that matters to me, sorry!). Even with component replacements though, these kits are so cheap that there is no real excuse for not trying them – even if you don’t need new amplifiers at all 😉

No real sound impressions yet, but I know these chips can sound really good so I am looking forward to seeing how much of their potential can be unlocked for the same price as a takeaway meal 😉

**Yes I know it’s not Sunday today, but as Whit Monday is a holiday in Denmark it felt like Sunday morning 😀

Mains line filter

An offshoot of my work on the STEPS circuit was that I started researching mains filters a bit. I kept it simple on the STEPS circuit, but decided to do a proper separate line filter PCB as well.

I’ve included something that is missing on the STEPS board, namely a differential-mode filter with an earth connection to serve as the midpoint. I’ve also put a fuse on this board as I often struggle a bit to find suitable space for a mains fuse in my builds – and obviously the fuse isn’t something that should ever be left out of a mains-powered circuit!

However, the STEPS wasn’t actually the only inspiration here: While looking for suitable common-mode chokes I discovered the Murata PLY10-series which is a hybrid containing a common-mode and a differential-mode choke winding in one part. This makes a more compact filter possible which obviously is an advantage (even if it has low-ish current capability and separate chokes are obviously more effective/efficient). The current capability of the PLY10 makes this filter suitable for preamps, headamps and similar circuits only though.

Pictures of the prototype below. To be honest, I am not sure if this is significantly better (or worse) than a normal filtered IEC socket, but it is at least a bit more versatile – and it was fun to make 🙂

An INA217 Mic preamp

Most of what I build is designed to reproduce sound that is already recorded, whereas this is designed to actually record sound for later reproduction. A slight departure from what I ordinarily do then, but bear with me. 🙂

It’s a microphone preamp based on the INA217 instrumentation amplifier chip from TI. The board layout is actually (another) one of my old designs that I’d managed to forget about for years but for reasons I’m not really sure about I rediscovered it and decided to rework it fairly recently. I think I did make a prototype board of the original back then but just never put it together – which is probably a good thing as I found an error in my original schematic when I did the update 😀

This design is also known as “the $5 mic preamp” (google it) since if you really pare it back to the essentials, it could be built for not much more than 5 dollars in components. My version is much more luxurious though, featuring an on-board XLR/TRS combo jack, configurable gain and phantom power as well as a DC servo and all the EMI-filtering and protection circuitry needed to avoid noise and accidents with phantom power. The only feature for this sort of amp that I have left out is the option to pad down the output with a switch – didn’t need that (and besides, no space left over anyway 🙂 )

I’ve also updated my matching PSU board which uses two small EI-core transformers to provide both the +/- voltage and the 48V phantom voltage. The transformer form factor only allows current for a single amp board, but that is OK. Originally regulating the phantom voltage was a bit of a faff, but since there is now an LM317HV with can tolerate up to a 60V-input, that was the obvious choice for the phantom supply regulator. This also means that for supplying more boards, my previous “Triple-PSU” design should be usable.

I’ve tested the preamp board with both a condenser mic and a cheap-ish Beyerdynamic dynamic mic and it seems to work quite well. I don’t have a proper recording setup at the moment though, but the sound quality is definitely good enough to warrant further experiments. I’ve made some updates to both boards and I’ll release the files when they have arrived so you can have a go yourself 🙂

Linear PSUs are better…

…aren’t they? 😀

No, I don’t really want to start up that discussion here because in my opinion it’s much more complex subject than most audiophiles believe. However, one thing that is obvious is that as more and more small audio components run on single DC rails from an external PSU (streamers, DACs, headphone amps etc.), a fairly large market for aftermarket “upgrade” PSUs has opened up. Some manufacturers (e.g. Auralic) even offer separate PSUs as upgrades themselves. Well, a linear PSU is normally a relatively simple thing so why not DIY it?

Since I now have a DAC, a preamp, a streamer and quite a few other things that run on single-rail DC this seems a worthwhile project and it’s actually been on the drawing board for a while. I did have a bit of trouble getting started on the circuit and layout though, and I didn’t manage to really break the deadlock until remembered a design called STEPS by headwize/head-fi user Tangent from (many) years ago. The design isn’t up anymore, but thankfully I managed to locate it on the wayback-machine.

It’s basically a standard LM317-based PSU, but with a few tweaks added to tease as much performance as is possible out of the LM317 regulator (or one of its many derivatives). My version isn’t a straightforward copy of the STEPS, but I owe a big thanks to the the STEPS all the same. Compared to a “normal” LM317-based circuit this one includes:

  • A simple mains filter on the primary side of the transformer.
  • A snubber circuit on the secondary side of the transformer.
  • Space for high-speed/soft recovery diodes and snubber caps.
  • Space for 2+2 18mm filter capacitors in C-R-C (pi-filter) configuration before the regulator.

Everything else looks like the “high-performance” circuit variation from the data sheet of any LM317-type regulator. The onboard transformer is a 25VA Talema PCB-mounted toroid type meaning the design should be good for most applications requiring less than app. 20W power. The 15VA type transformer will fit as well and allow for mounting in a 1U enclosure, but the constraints on heat sinking and capacitor height might then be an issue.

The pictures show the completed 12V prototype for my Arcam IRdac as well as a partially completed 16V board for an Auralic Aries Mini (a recent purchase) – I’m waiting for a transformer in the mail before I can finish that and test it 🙂

Zero Audio?

Around a year ago I first tried making a music streamer from my original Raspberry Pi, a digital converter board from Audiophonics and Volumio. Apart from my unfamiliarity with Linux causing some confusion, it actually worked well and it caused me to have a bit of a mindset change. Originally I wanted to have my music stored locally on a harddrive on the playing device (a MacMini with Amarra), but since the NAS I use for redundant backup of files is just sitting there anyway, streaming was suddenly a viable option. Since then I have been happily using a RPi 3 and cheap digital converter board from ebay as a streamer to feed my Arcam DAC, switching between Volumio and Runeaudio for the software-part.

I am mostly happy with this setup, but since the RPi Zero came out a while ago I’d wanted to try using that for something similar and take advantage of the compact size. To match the Zero I bought a “TinyToslink” adapter to give the Zero an optical output to feed my DAC. It seems to work well, but it’s a bit surprising – in a good way – that something less than half the size of a credit card (excluding all the necessary adapters of course 😀 ) produces sound like this.

I have some ideas for how to case this to make it pretty, but it’s going to take a while as it’s not a priority right now. Also, the TinyTOSlink is not as sophisticated as e.g. the Hifiberry Digi+ Pro (which I have my eye on as well), and there are a few things that could be better. One of the problems is that it doesn’t do 192 kHz over optical (and my DAC will not accept that either), so I have been wondering about DIY’ing a version with transformer-isolated coax out instead – maybe later ;).

I’ll probably continue experimenting a little with the Zero and leave the RPi3 in my main system, but if you want to get a cheap streamer together the Pi – regardless of format – is a good option. And it can of course also do many other things as well (especially if you can be bothered to learn some basic Linux, which I can’t right now 😀 )

Humble beginnings….

I thought the title was appropriate because while this build might not look like much, what comes after it is hopefully somewhat more impressive. It’s an external AC power supply (a.k. a. a transformer in a box 😀 ) for an upcoming version of Kevin Gilmore’s Dynahi SuSy (SuperSymmetry) balanced headphone amplifier (more info here).

The reason for making an external PSU isn’t grounded in any particular philosophical belief but simply in a lack of available space in an (already sizeable) amplifier chassis. The decision to make it an external AC PSU rather than an external DC PSU is a slightly philosophical one though – although heavily influenced by thoughts on practicality and versatility 🙂

This is 2x25VAC and it will eventually have a 2x30VAC identical twin for another project which also requires an external PSU – at least if it is to have any hope of fitting in a standard-sized stereo rack 😀

The chassis is as compact as I could reasonable make it and the output is fused via my fuseboard (link) and then fed to a 5-pin Neutrik XLR which has a few features I like for this application (solid, reliable, cheap, locking etc.)

Front panel, power switch and final wiring coming once the front panel layout for the amplifier itself is ready 🙂

50ASX BTL conversion (part 2)…

So, I’ve done some more testing on my BTL-converted 50ASX-modules…

As you can see, I’ve used a slightly less improvised test setup compared to last time (it looks worse than it is…). While I wouldn’t call what I have done “extensive testing” by any means, my gut feeling is that this works 🙂 It also ties in well with how the other ASX-modules work and some “insider knowledge” from years ago that I can still recall 🙂

Note and disclaimer: I would very much appreciate if someone else tried this to verify and maybe do more testing, however I will accept no responsibility for damage to property, people or pets (or anything else for that matter) if you find a problem – this is DIY after all 😀

You can of course hack this conversion anyway you like, but I opted for removing the old jumper altogether and soldering in a new one. If you do that, be advised that the ASX-board is four layers and soldered with lead-free solder, so it will take a bit more heat to reflow the joints than I am at least used to. If you use a soldering iron that is too small, you’ll just heat up the board and possibly damage it.

My suggested approach would be to cut the jumper on the top side of the board. Heat the solder joint from the bottom and pull out the jumper wire with small pliers. Then clean the remaining solder off the board with desoldering braid or (better yet) a vacuum desoldering station if you have access to one. Then solder in the new jumper in the BTL position. There isn’t much space to work on and you should be careful not to damage any of the (sometimes annoyingly) small SMD-components on either side of the board. Once the new jumper is in place, follow the wiring diagram for the BTL-version in the 50ASX data sheet/designer’s manual and you should be good to go.

Bear in mind that what you end up with isn’t a “real” balanced (= differential) amplifier, but two SE amps referenced to ground and driven with opposite phase input signals to produced a bridged output. As such, the input ground is still required in order for the amp to produce a correct signal on the output. I’ve found a good sketch here for LM3886 modules that should show the correct input wiring. Output on the ASX is taken from the P104 connector, so ignore what the sketch shows here (and of course the DC wiring is irrelevant as well).

If you do try this, let me know how you get on 😀

PS: Yeah and the picture is still crap – but don’t worry, the light should be better from around April onwards 😉

50asxbtltest-1

ICEpower 50ASX – SE to BTL conversion

I’ve recieved a few questions (and participated in a diyaudio discussion thread) about converting ICEpower 50ASX2 SE modules (which are fairly easy to get), into 50ASX BTL modules (which aren’t). I was pretty sure this could be done without component substitutions by simply desoldering the W401 jumper and resoldering it into the W400 position (marked BTL on the bottom of the board) but as I had no modules left, I couldn’t try it. Now I’ve managed to get my hands on some more modules and I’ve actually tried converting one of them and the good news are – I think it works!

I haven’t actually measured anything (not sure what to measure to be honest) but I get clean audio out on the BTL speaker connector (P104) and a very loud buzzing noise on the other output, so at least it isn’t running stereo anymore. No guarantees on anything yet though, but it’s definitely promising.

Oh, and don’t laugh at my improvised test setup, it is necessary because I don’t have a proper balanced source in the house at the moment and I couldn’t be bothered to crimp new cables just for testing 🙂 Incidentally, don’t laugh at the poor picture either – winter in Scandinavia means the days are so short that I can only take pictures in daylight during the weekend…

Next up is to convert a second module, build some better cables and try it “for real” in a stereo setup – hopefully this weekend 🙂

50asxbtl-1